Itami Juzo’s 1985 Tampopo presents the story of a widowed mother trying to save a failing noodle stand. The film contains a great deal of small narratives that ultimately compose the entire story. Itami uses food as a focal point to illustrate and even satirize social issues within Japan, including class distinctions and the Westernization of Japanese culture.
The opening scene of the film portrays an older, presumably wise man instructing his young pupil on the art of ramen consumption. All of the following scenes build off of the seeds planted by this introduction, making this the single most important scene in the film. First and foremost, this scene introduces food as the focal point of the film. Itami centered this film on food because it plays a key role in numerous aspects of many different societies, and can be used as a jumping off point to introduce discussion of different aspects of society at large.
Itami also introduces another major point of this film in the opening scene: challenging the social status quo. The food being consumed in this opening scene is ramen. Ramen has traditionally been regarded as common food, with no special or significant value attached to it. This is what makes the ritual of ramen eating portrayed within the scene so strange; there is no justification for, or history of, such theatrics for consumption of lowly ramen. By rethinking tradition in the opening scene of the movie, Itami sets the stage for this to be repeated throughout the film. This is evident with the scene in which the young businessman does not follow the example of his superiors and instead orders a high-culture French dish.
The portrayal of the ramen eating ritual also serves two other very important roles. The first is that it elevates the status of ramen within the minds of the audience, which is vital if the audience is to be drawn into the film. If ramen is viewed as a lowly, common food as it traditionally is outside of the film, then there would be no need for Tampopo’s ramen shop to elevate the quality with ramen. The audience, along with the other characters in the film, would be satisfied with mediocre ramen because it is a mediocre meal. By elevating ramen to a form of art, Itami creates a need for the restaurant to elevate the quality of noodle. The second of these is that it gives Goro the expertise to properly critique Tampopo’s ramen, and guide the shop to a heightened level of success. Goro’s knowledge of the art of ramen allows the audience to believe he is capable of passing on his knowledge of ramen to Tampopo.
Itami continually uses food in many different ways as a tool to disrupt the traditional status quo within Tampopo. He accomplishes this not only by using food to directly illustrate his point, but also as a framework to use other methods and build characters. The introductory scene serves as a building block on which all of Itami’s arguments are built. Without this scene, the movie would lose all merit, and suffer from both a lack of substance and an inability to portray a believable story to the audience.
A World of Food We Have Never Known
Tampopo is fairly easy to follow—a man, Goro helps Tampopo, the widowed owner of a noodle shop, understand the true art of making and selling ramen. However, in the different short vignettes inserted into this main narrative, Itami Juzo presents food in a bold, inhibited manner that illustrates various roles of food. Itami utilizes certain cinematic techniques such as POV shots, extreme close-ups, and fluid transitions to break down the boundaries of film and reality for the audience to truly experience, see, and almost taste food in unimaginable ways.
From the beginning, it is impossible to view the film objectively as the gangster speaks to us directly—hinting at the basic theater courtesies to our own audience—and dissolves the distinction between our two worlds. The extreme close-up of his face and the mobile camera closes the distance between cinematic reality and ours as we find ourselves becoming part of his theater space.
We instantly become an omniscient, omnipotent character in the film when we are placed in Goro’s perspective before even the credits roll. The POV shots are subtle but crucial as Itami inserts them in moments to almost live vicariously through the characters. For example, after a rather odd sequence of the gangster eating an oyster from a young girl, we are placed quickly in a different story of a man with a toothache whose pain is more relatable to us. Itami takes us one step further when we are actually placed in the dentist chair—in the perspective of the man. We move from empathy to ultimate dread as we revoke our own memories in the dentist office.
When Tampopo’s son requests an omelette, we are invited to see the careful process that the cook undergoes to create such a simple dish. Similar to the concept of the male gaze upon the female body as the object of desire, we gaze upon the close-ups of food and the process of ramen creation with a similar yearning and lust. In all sequences of food, no dialogue is necessary as the food speaks for itself with the camera placed in birds-eye view; Itami wants us to only concentrate on the food and our involuntary reactions toward it. However, he then overturns every conventional view on food by placing the same ingredient in the next sequence. Itami rather foreshadows the reverse version of the egg by the subtle transition as the singing in the previous story is still heard in the background. In a long, unedited shot, the gangster and his girlfriend rallies the yolk of an egg in their mouths. By placing us right in the middle—sometimes right in between the two characters—Itami challenges us to really explore different ways to experience food and not restrict it to mere daily consumption.
Tampopo’s heart-warming story may be the main plot, but it is the short sequences that really express Itami’s intention to depict food as a rather adaptable and universal medium. Although the film may seem rather “random” and erratic, the carefully constructed shots edited together suggest otherwise as viewers walk out of Tampopo with a new perspective on food.
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